You can check with a machine shop, such as T-hoff in downtown Raleigh if you don't want to drive out here. FredP Fred. Corporate Member. Bearings are cheap and plentiful. It just aint worth it to re-use the old ones. Why drop a ton of cash on the shelix head and then try and save ten bucks by re-using old bearings?
As Fred points out, the act of removing a tight bearing quite often damages the bearing from the applied force. Unfortunately, if you damage your used bearings you will not become aware of it until AFTER you have everything reassembled and you are wondering why you are getting vibration from your new Shelix head -- at which point you will probably blame the cutterhead for being out of balance rather than the old damaged bearings.
It simply does not pay to reuse bearings unless they can be easily removed by hand. Once it takes tools to remove the bearing you should always plan on replacement. You will also want to be careful installing the new bearings -- do not apply any force to the outside race when you install them, only to the inside race if force must be applied.
You may need to preheat the new bearings to get them installed easily. Good luck. Sully New User jay. As Ethan mentioned heating the new bearing will make it easier to install on the shelix.
Put the Shelix in the freezer over night and put the bearing on a 60 watt light bulb for a few minutes. It will make the process of putting them on much easier. Definitely go with new bearings. I concur, new bearing.
Motion Industries or Applied Industrial will have them and will tell you where to have them installed if you do not want to do it yourself. Before we start installing the new press-in bearing, we need to do some clean-up and inspection.
Check the steering knuckle for any debris, nicks or burrs. Also take a look at the seating surfaces for the new bearing. If you see any problems, remove them with a fine file, wire brush, emery cloth or honing stone. That dimension is critical to bearing retention.
Common Causes of Failure The most common cause for wheel hub bearing failure is impact. Solving the Problem In a shop, there are several methods for finding bad wheel hub bearings, including directional microphones or ultrasound. Loosen the lug nuts and use the wheel jack to lift the wheel. Remove the lug nuts, and take off the wheel. Remove the brake caliper using a socket wrench. Take off the dust cover, cotter pin, and castle nut. Beneath the dust cover are the castle nut and cotter pin, which can be removed with pliers.
Remove the rotor. First remove the outer bearing, then the rotor itself. If it gets stuck, use a rubber mallet to jar it loose.
Unscrew the hub bolts and take off the old hub. The wheel bearing is behind the hub. Disassemble the hub assembly. Take off the races and clean the knuckle. The important thing is to use a rose-bud with a torch not a regular tip or an induction heater and heat the component evenly but focus the heat around the key-way if there is one.
Make sure you have everything in place beforehand, as you will only have a few seconds to install the bearing once it reaches the appropriate temperature. An infrared thermometer will aid greatly in this endeavor.
In regards to the heating and cooling method mentioned before, one poster stated heating the bearings would likely damage them, well in the videos others have mentioned you DO NOT heat the bearings, heat the KNUCKLE that the bearing goes into I used to install steel bushings all the time in machinery all the time.
We never heated the receiving bore, just submerged the bushings in liquid nitrogen until the boiling stoops. Usually under a minute. They just slide right in and expand when they come back to normal room temp. That being said, I never tried it with a bearing.
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